Il Giornale degli Orologi
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Patek Philippe Calatrava Alarm Travel Time 5520RG-001

Patek Philippe Calatrava Alarm Travel Time: the dial
Compared to the platinum version, the new 5520RG Patek Philippe Calatrava Alarm Travel Time in rose gold has slight updates to the dial. The minute track has been enlarged to show tenths as well. Consequently, some of the Arabic numerals have been relocated and others have been removed due to their proximity to the bell-shaped alarm indicator and the date-of-the-month dial.
Patek Philippe Calatrava Alarm Travel Time: the case
With a width of 42.2 mm and a thickness of 11.6 mm, the pink gold case is a size that fits the wrist adequately. The pilot-inspired look is softened by the elegant finishes of the case and bezel. This picture shows the details of the white gold pusher tubes which make it waterproof up to 3 bar.
Patek Philippe Calatrava Alarm Travel Time: side view
The pusher at 2 o'clock is used to set or reset the alarm function and features a bell-shaped logo. The three-step crown at 4 o'clock, where the Patek Philippe cross is, has multiple functions. When fully pushed in and rotated clockwise, it winds the alarm up. Rotating it anticlockwise winds up the movement: full winding takes ten turns. Pulling the crown out to the first step allows you to set the alarm time. When fully pulled out, it allows you to set the hands.
Time setting: easy and quick
On the left-hand side of the case, two pushers enable local time to be adjusted in one-hour increments (forward with the + button and backward with the – button). This function ensures the time is set perfectly when changing time zones. The night/day indicators on the dial help to avoid any mistakes.
The alarm window
Positioned below the 12 o'clock index, the alarm window features a pink gold rectangular frame divided into two sections. The left-hand section displays the hours in two digits (01–12), while the right-hand section displays the minutes in 15-minute intervals (00–15–30–45). Above this is a small, bell-shaped aperture which serves as an on/off indicator for the alarm, while a round indicator below it shows whether the alarm is set for daytime or night-time. In this photo, the black bell indicates that the alarm is deactivated and the white indicator shows that the alarm is set for daytime.
Close-up on day of the month indicator
The date indication of the new pink gold Patek Philippe Calatrava Alarm Travel Time is generously sized and stands out in an ebony black. The concentric machining is reminiscent of that on the chemin-de-fer chapter ring, which is also black. The date can be adjusted synchronised with the local time hand thanks to a special corrector discreetly positioned inside the lower left lug of the case. This allows Patek Philippe to preserve the neat lines of the watch.
Patek Philippe Calatrava Alarm Travel Time: the movement
The sapphire crystal case back provides an excellent view of the automatic AL 30-660 S C FUS calibre, complete with a yellow gold oscillating weight adorned with Côtes de Genève and bearing the Patek Philippe Seal. One of the highlights is the Spiromax balance spring in Silinvar. For those who may not recall, this material was patented in 2005 and is based on monocrystalline silicon. It is light, non-magnetic and corrosion-resistant. It was developed in collaboration with Rolex, the Swatch Group and the CSEM in Neuchâtel. The alarm hammer, which strikes a gong at a frequency of 2.5 Hz (equal to 2.5 strokes per second), is clearly visible in the lower part of the movement.
Close-up on the buckle
The brown calfskin strap, which is clearly inspired by aviation and has a vintage design, is combined with a double-bridge pin buckle that also bears the Patek Philippe trademark. Opting for a pin buckle instead of a folding clasp is more faithful to the aesthetic codes of pilot's watches and is more practical.
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This post is also available in: Italian

As an avid reader of our pages, you will know that we wrote about the Patek Philippe Calatrava Alarm Travel Time in the Italian edition of Giornale degli Orologi. This is because we like the watch very much, and because we always find something new to say when Patek Philippe launches a new model.

At the 2024 Watches and Wonders Geneva event, the Maison presented a new model: the 5520RG-001 Calatrava Alarm Travel Time. It combines the ‘traveller’ complication of the dual time zone with the alarm function. Thanks to its distinctive design, this watch has been instantly recognisable since its launch in 2015, first with the Travel Time version and then with the Alarm version in 2019.

Are you kidding me? A Patek Philippe Calatrava!

While pilot’s watches have now found their place in Patek Philippe’s current catalogue, the Patek Philippe Calatrava Pilot Travel Time ref. 5524 was launched in 2014, and the result was more than just a passing curiosity; it caused quite an upheaval. Many were taken by surprise because this watch deviated from the typical Patek Philippe aesthetic. True, but so what?

Its design was certainly very different from the classic Calatrava timepieces and challenged what aficionados had come to expect from the Geneva brand. Despite the fact that the inspiration came from Patek Philippe’s history, sceptics still remain today. Since the 1930s, Patek Philippe has produced pilot’s watches, also known as siderometers, for military use, and this model is a tribute to that past.

In any case, the Reference 5524 quickly became a commercial success for Patek Philippe. In fact, the model was slimmed down in 2018 to fit smaller wrists. The reference 7234R, made of rose gold, had a 37.5 mm case, and in 2020, a version made of white gold was released. Between these two models, the Calatrava Alarm Travel Time 5520P in platinum was introduced, and it is still in the catalogue today.

Although the ‘Pilot’ name was dropped, the collection’s essence remained intact. Indeed, this watch retained the distinctive design and functionality of ref. 5524, but it also introduced an additional complication: a 24-hour alarm with a digital time display. This is exactly what we are talking about today.

Technical and ergonomic challenges

The new 5520RG-001 boasts aesthetic strengths (which I wrote about above and will come back to later) and mouth-watering mechanics. This essentially refers to the AL 30-660 S C FUS calibre, which powers the 2019 Platinum version. According to Patek Philippe, around five years of study and development were required before it could be put into production.

Developing a new alarm mechanism and combining it with the dual time-zone complication posed several problems. Firstly, there was the issue of thickness. To keep the case as thin as possible, the Maison developed an integrated movement instead of adding an alarm module to an existing movement. Another objective of the Patek Philippe engineers was to create a user-friendly watch. This is not a trivial matter and is often not even a priority when developing a piece of haute horlogerie such as the Patek Philippe Calatrava Alarm Travel Time.

The result is the AL 30-660 S C FUS automatic calibre, consisting of 574 parts, including Patek Philippe’s patented Gyromax balance wheel and Spiromax balance spring made from Silinvar. Although the number of components in the alarm section has not been disclosed, Patek Philippe has confirmed that the calibre is covered by four patents.

Firstly, there is an anti-backlash mechanism for setting the alarm time. This compensates for mechanical backlash, enabling the chime to be set with one-minute accuracy to the nearest quarter of an hour. For instance, the alarm can be set for 12:15 at 12:14. Two other patents concern the logic functions of the alarm and its digital display. Finally, there is a section that deactivates the alarm’s mainspring when the alarm display indicates that the alarm is activated.

Let’s wake up!

Similar to the date display, the 24-hour alarm is integrated into the local time display. When activated, a hammer strikes a gong around the movement, similar to a minute repeater, but limited to a single note. The hammer activation lasts approximately 35 seconds at a frequency of 2.5 Hz (2.5 beats per second), equating to around eighty beats in total. As in a minute repeater, a centrifugal regulator ensures the regularity of the beat.

If the owner wishes to stop the alarm early, they simply press the pusher at 2 o’clock. If they prefer to let the alarm complete its cycle, it will automatically switch off. The transition from activation to deactivation is signalled by the bell-shaped indicator on the dial at 12 o’clock; when this turns black, the alarm cycle is complete.

Entering mechanical details, a separate spring barrel, which is wound by the crown at 4 o’clock, provides the energy required to drive the alarm mechanism. A built-in clutch prevents excessive tension. The movement is equipped with a stop-seconds mechanism that allows precise time setting. Moreover, it is certified by the Patek Philippe Seal and has a tolerance of -3/+2 seconds per day and a power reserve of between 42 and 52 hours.

Despite its complexity, the movement is extremely easy to use. Once you have identified the hand corresponding to the local time or the time at home, the pushers provide clear instructions for correct use. Please refer to the captions for more information. In addition, safety locks prevent accidental adjustments, providing an extra degree of protection.

Why we love the Patek Philippe Calatrava Alarm Travel Time

The Patek Philippe Calatrava Alarm Travel Time Ref. 5520RG is a novel timepiece, primarily in terms of its aesthetic design. This is evident in the two-tone sunburst grey and ebony black dial, which features applied Arabic numerals and white gold sword-shaped hands with a luminescent coating. The date ring at 6 o’clock and the railtrack minute ring are black, a colour that is also found in the outline of the large, luminescent, applied Arabic numerals and local time hands. The home time hand is charcoal grey, skeletonised and not luminescent. White has been chosen for both the central seconds hand and the date hand at 6 o’clock.

While the version already in the collection is made of platinum, this reference features pink gold. This is a very warm material, and when combined with the colour of the dial and, above all, the brown calfskin strap with a vintage finish, it gives the watch a seductive and modern look.

You will also find more precise information in the captions, as well as more technical details. The key factor in choosing the new Patek Philippe Calatrava Alarm Travel Time will be full awareness of its incredible quality. Its price of 261,360 euros demonstrates that the Maison has placed this watch in the Grand Complications category, a decision that was not universally popular.

Personally, I see nothing strange about it. Grand Complications are not just about astronomy, minute repeaters and perpetual calendars. Combining such a refined alarm function with a travel time complication is anything but trivial, I assure you. And it’s not just because I’m a watchmaking guru; at Watches and Wonders, I saw and tried the watch, and I can confirm that excellence comes at a price but also provides unparalleled emotions.