Seamaster Bronze Gold: the evolution of the James Bond Omega

Daniel Craig previewed the new Omega Seamaster Diver 300M in Bronze Gold at the Governors Awards in Los Angeles at the end of November 2024. Just like the steel version seen at the Olympics, it sparked curiosity and rumours among fans of the brand and watch enthusiasts in general, which only subsided when it was launched at the end of February. Therefore, having the English actor wear the new versions of the 'James Bond' watch in advance seems to be a winning marketing strategy. For this reason, it has now become standard practice for Omega.

The dial of the Bronze Gold Omega Seamaster

The case measures 42 mm in diameter, 13.8 mm in thickness, and 49.7 mm from lug to lug. The completely brushed finish extends from the middle to the twisted lugs. The slightly grained dial prevents reflections and features applied hour markers, baton markers at the quarter hours and small markers. All of these are outlined in black and PVD bronze gold, like the 'skeletonised' hands. The luminescent material creates a uniform effect in the light, emphasising the watch's retro appearance.

The new Seamaster Bronze Gold watches house the same calibre 8806 Co-Axial Master Chronometer movement found in the original Omega James Bond timepiece. This self-winding, bidirectional movement has a diameter of 26 mm and is mounted on 35 jewels. Alongside the Co-Axial escapement, it features a variable inertia balance wheel with a free sprung balance wheel made of silicon that operates at a frequency of 25,200 vibrations per hour (3.5 Hz), offering a power reserve of 55 hours (single barrel). Like all movements certified by METAS, it is resistant to magnetic fields of up to 15,000 Gauss.

The Bronze Gold Omega Seamaster with the rubber strap

Due to the density of the metal alloy used, the new models are heavier than the 007 Edition, which is made entirely of titanium. The 007 Edition weighs 93 grams, while the Bronze Gold version with a rubber strap weighs 122 grams and the version with a bracelet weighs 183 grams (almost double). However, this is not necessarily a flaw. In fact, many watch enthusiasts prefer heavy models that can be 'felt' on the wrist.

The Seamaster Diver 300M, made entirely of grade 2 titanium, was released last December. Although the materials and colours differ from those of the new Bronze Gold version, the vintage style remains virtually unchanged. This model features an exclusive bronze alloy from Omega for the bezel, crown and decompression valve, a colour echoed in the PVD treatment of the hands and hour markers.

The four Omega Seamaster Diver 300M references

The Omega Seamaster Diver 300M references were released last autumn. While they are all made of steel, the materials and colours of the dials and unidirectional rotating bezels differ significantly. The two grey models feature a grade 2 titanium bezel insert and a steel dial. The two black models, on the other hand, have an anodised aluminium bezel insert and dial. Both types can be coupled to either a Milanese mesh steel bracelet or a rubber strap.

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21 March 2025

Written by Dino del Vescovo

This post is also available in: Italian

The Omega Seamaster Diver 300M collection is expanding with two new models that combine bronze gold – a material I will discuss below – with a burgundy aluminium bezel. The first model (ref. 210.92.42.20.01.003) has a Bronze Gold case and a black rubber strap. The second model (ref. 210.90.42.20.01.003) is made entirely from the precious alloy, including the Milanese mesh bracelet. Both models draw inspiration from the renowned 2020 Seamaster Diver 300M 007 Edition in titanium, which was worn by Daniel Craig/007 during the filming of No Time to Die. This was the 25th film in the James Bond series to feature cinema’s most famous secret agent.

The antecedents

This model has recently given rise to at least two noteworthy versions, both of which are currently available in the catalogue. The first is the Seamaster Diver 300M in steel. Spotted on the wrist of a British actor during the Paris Olympics last summer, it caused a sensation among the brand’s fans, who only calmed down when the watch was officially launched in autumn. There are four versions in total (see the gallery above), all featuring a 42 mm case and a box-shaped sapphire crystal. The most vintage-inspired model seems to have been the most popular, featuring a black anodised aluminium dial and bezel insert, as well as a Milanese mesh bracelet. Just like James Bond’s.

Another variation on the theme was released in December. This time, the Seamaster Diver 300M range was expanded to include a green model with gold detailing. Like the James Bond model, it has a brushed grade 2 titanium case with a diameter of 42 mm and a box sapphire crystal. However, the bezel is made of bronze gold, although it retains the anodised aluminium insert. The dial is also made of anodised aluminium, and the crown, decompression valve and hands are all made of Bronze Gold, as are the applied hour markers. The watch can be fastened to the wrist in two ways: with either a Milanese mesh bracelet or a rubber strap. Please refer to the official Omega website for prices and to view the entire collection, where you can easily compare the different models.

Similarities

The two new Omega Seamaster Diver 300M Bronze Gold watches boast the same key features as the original James Bond timepiece that inspired them. For example, the line’s diving heritage is confirmed by its water resistance of up to 30 bar (as indicated by the name) and the manually operated decompression valve at the 10 o’clock position.
Luminescent material covering the applied hour markers, hands and bezel graphics is presented in an evocative sand colour with a vintage effect. In low light conditions, this material glows blue to enable the time and diving times to be easily read. The minute hand, on the other hand, glows green.

Dial and bezel are still made of anodised aluminium. The black, sandblasted dial contrasts beautifully with the burgundy-coloured bezel insert, reminiscent of the wines of the French region of the same name. This precise anodising process uses oxalic acid as an electrolyte. This method is less common than one that uses sulphuric acid. It was patented in Japan in 1923 and subsequently became popular in Germany, particularly for architectural applications. Anodising has many advantages: it creates a layer that is much thinner than paint or powder coating, yet extremely hard-wearing and resistant to abrasion, wear and tear, scratches and corrosion. Furthermore, it does not fade over long periods of time.

The Seamaster Bronze Gold’s got the calibre 8806

This in-house movement is the renowned calibre 8806, which is derived from the 8800 model from 1999. Like the latter, it features a co-axial escapement developed by Omega itself. More specifically, the calibre 8806 differs from the calibre 8800 in that it omits the date display. It is one of the most reliable and prestigious movements in its price range thanks to its Co-Axial escapement and beautiful handcrafted finishes. This is immediately apparent when viewed through the sapphire crystal case back. The craftsmanship evident in the plate and oscillating weight (with bidirectional winding) and the burnished screws is clear evidence of this.

Without delving into the specifics of its design, it’s important to note that Omega developed the Co-Axial escapement to enhance the precision and durability of its timepieces. The Swiss lever escapement creates greater friction between its components (the wheel, lever, bridge and plate), resulting in increased wear and the need for more frequent lubrication. Although the Co-Axial escapement is more structurally complex, it reduces friction in favour of consistency and minimises mechanical wear.

Furthermore, the Omega 8806 calibre uses a variable inertia balance with a silicon hairspring which is resistant to magnetic fields, and has been certified as a Master Chronometer by the Swiss Federal Institute of Metrology (METAS). This certification covers water resistance, chronometric performance, power reserve (55 hours for the Omega Seamaster Diver 300M), and anti-magnetic properties.

Omega’s Gold Bronze

To avoid any misunderstandings, I would like to clarify that the Bronze Gold used extensively by Omega in the new Seamaster Diver 300M watches is not a special type of bronze-coloured gold. In fact, it is a bronze alloy with a gold colouring. I mention this because if you are attracted to the Bronze Gold model (210.90.42.20.01.003), you will end up with a watch that has a bronze case and bracelet. It is a special bronze alloy containing a small percentage of gold. Let me explain.

Bronze is actually a metal alloy made by melting copper and tin together. The tin content is usually capped at 9% or less. One or two additional components are often added in varying proportions to create alloys with specific chemical and physical properties. In the case of Omega and Bronze Gold, these additional components are 9K gold, palladium and silver. 9K gold, in turn, is an alloy of gold and silver, with the noble metal representing 37.5% of the total.

The result is a sophisticated alloy that meets the requirements of corrosion resistance and durability. Even when worn daily, Bronze Gold remains unaffected by the oxidising action of the ambient environment (which often manifests itself in bronze as a greenish patina), retaining its colour unchanged over time. It is therefore an extraordinary material developed by Omega’s research and development team. As such, it is also quite expensive, especially when crafted into a Milanese mesh bracelet.

Considerations and prices

The Omega Seamaster Diver 300M series is one of the most popular high-end diving watches in the world. With almost 60 references available at the time of writing, the collection’s wide variety of materials and colours allows everyone to find their favourite combination. In my opinion, the bronze gold model with a black dial and burgundy bezel is particularly appealing. The colour contrast is accentuated further still in the model with a black rubber strap. Prices of the new Seamaster Bronze Gold are in line with what we would expect from Omega: €15,600 for the model with a strap and €31,200 for the model with a mesh bracelet.