This post is also available in: Italian
When you have a watch in your catalogue that has been renewed five times over the course of its fifty-year history, while remaining true to its essence, you can and must introduce increasingly sophisticated complications. I’m talking about Baume&Mercier and the Riviera collection.
Born in 1973 from the pen of Jean-Claude Gueit − who also designed Piaget Polo and Rolex Cellini − this collection has undergone five renewals. In June, the Geneva-based company will release four new Riviera chronographs, all with 41 mm cases. Three of these, the most traditional models, are already available to purchase online.
Today, however, I want to focus on the flagship version: the Riviera Flyback 10828, which features a flyback chronograph calibre. This watch has a very pronounced vintage flavour, and together with the 10786 perpetual calendar variant from 2023, it raises the prestige of the Maison and the Riviera collection as a whole.
Riviera Flyback 10828, an irresistible vintage dial
I know I shouldn’t say that − professionalism dictates impartiality, after all. However, the more I look at the Riviera Flyback 10828, the more I like it. I think it combines classic and modern elements perfectly. The gold dial and the graphics, which appear to have been created by hand using an Isograph nib similar to those I used for technical drawings at school, give it a unique charm that is hard to resist.
I feel this way even before I figure out the meaning of the set of numbers, circles, notches and indices − which I didn’t focus on at first − and realise that an advanced chronograph calibre lies beneath. First conceived almost a century ago, the flyback chronograph was a valuable instrument for early aviators. But let us go in order.
Telemeter and tachometer
In addition to being a special chronograph, the Riviera Flyback 10828 has two scales on its dial. The first, located on the flange, transforms the watch into a telemeter. The second scale, displayed on three concentric circles centred on the dial and intersecting the small seconds counter on the left and the chronograph minutes counter on the right, transforms the watch into a tachymeter.
But what is a telemeter? It is a device used to measure the distance between an observer and a phenomenon that is first visible and then audible. The most classic example? A thunderstorm. Start the chronograph when you see lightning and stop it when you hear thunder. The central chronograph seconds hand will then indicate the distance separating you from the point where the lightning struck on the telemeter scale. With the Riviera Flyback 10828, each full 60-second lap corresponds to 20 kilometres.
So, what is a speedometer used for? It measures the average speed in kilometres per hour that is maintained over a distance of 1 km. In practice, simply start the chronograph when you begin your journey and stop it after travelling 1 km. The central chronograph seconds hand indicates the average speed maintained. It is worth noting that, in keeping with the vintage design of the Riviera Flyback 10828, the tachymeter scale goes down to a minimum of 20 km/h as vehicles used to run at slower speeds.
The flyback function…
Now, let’s move on to the watch’s standout feature: the flyback function that controls the chronograph. The meaning is clear in all languages: ‘Flyback’, as well as the literal translations ‘retour-en-vol‘ in French and ‘ritorno in volo‘ in Italian, immediately convey the idea. In fact, the flyback function enables the chronograph to be stopped, reset and restarted at the push of a single button. So, in an instant. Let me explain. Pressing the button at 2 o’clock starts the chronograph. To measure non-stop intervals of time quickly, we simply press the pusher at 4 o’clock at the right moment to stop, reset and restart the chronograph instantly.
This operation can be performed an infinite number of times and is useful for carrying out consecutive measurements. Originally, this was used for manoeuvres during flight phases, but today it can be used to time laps on a track. A flyback chronograph can, of course, also operate in the traditional manner: the pusher at 2 o’clock is used to start and stop it, and the pusher at 4 o’clock resets it to zero.
… and the La Joux-Perret 8147 movement
The Riviera Flyback 10828 features the La Joux-Perret 8147 calibre. This has automatic winding, a frequency of 4 Hz and the standard autonomy of 42 hours (just under two days). Although it is not an in-house calibre, the movement has been extensively tested by the Geneva watchmaker and has powered the flyback chronograph models in the Clifton and Capeland collections for years.
More specifically, it is a reinterpretation of the Eta 7750 chronograph calibre in flyback form. This calibre is found in a multitude of chronographs from Swatch Group brands (of which Eta itself is a member). On the other hand, La Joux-Perret is a manufacturer based in La Chaux-de-Fonds, Switzerland, that is under the aegis of the Citizen Group. As such, it can benefit from the support of one of the largest Japanese watchmaking giants.
Riviera Flyback 10828, the price
The Riviera Flyback 10828 stands out for another reason compared to the other chronographs recently launched by Baume & Mercier. It has a recommended retail price of €8,200 − €4,000 more than its lesser-known counterparts. It has the same case dimensions, water resistance and bracelet as the others. However, it has a different movement, dial and aesthetic. Integrating the flyback function into a chronograph calibre inevitably has an impact on the design. Add to that the fact that it is a limited edition of just 73 pieces, and the full picture of the watch’s characteristics emerges. Bearing this in mind, I invite you to draw your own conclusions based on your personal preferences.
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