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In French, manchette means ‘cuff’. In jewellery, it generally refers to a high, rigid bracelet measuring 4–10 cm that covers the entire wrist. In the world of watches, however, the manchette is a specific design featuring a small case integrated into a wide, soft strap. This trendy accessory was particularly popular between the late 1990s and early 2000s, featuring in the collections of many prestigious brands. I recall some of them: Chaumet Khésis, Baume & Mercier Catwalk, Cartier Panthère Ruban and the unusual Chanel Chocolat (with a digital display). All of these models are now out of production. The only survivor, which is still in the catalogue, is the Patek Philippe Twenty~4 (at least for now), as the Frederique Constant Classics Manchette has just been re-released.
More than twenty years ago…
Frederique Constant launched the original Manchette, which perfectly embodied the archetypal Manchette watch of the time. Practical yet essential, precious yet not excessive, it was ideal for both the office and the dance floor. Its versatility meant it could be worn at any time and for any occasion. Typically crafted from steel, with gold being a rare exception that gained popularity later, it was often adorned with diamonds. It always featured a small quartz movement − precise and reliable. It was a watch that women usually bought for themselves, reflecting a strong, determined femininity that was conscious of its own style and charm.
That was the Manchette by Frederique Constant. Also made of steel, it had a flexible, wrap-around bracelet formed of seven dense rows of elements with a square base and rounded volumes. Inside, underlined by the polished bezel, a small square dial stood out, featuring quarter Arabic numerals alternating with diamond markers, and a central zone adorned with geometric motifs. Super-feminine and exuding metallic beauty, it was almost “soft” to the touch. Like its counterparts of the time, it was very different from the traditional design of ladies’ watches. It was a symbol of modernity and a statement of personality for proud, self-confident career women.
The new Classics Manchette
Today, Frederique Constant has relaunched this iconic timepiece, creating a version that stays true to the original while incorporating subtle aesthetic updates that accentuate its luxurious appearance. The new Classics Manchette’s steel bracelet still comprises seven rows of square-based elements connected two by two, but with more geometric, truncated pyramid-shaped lines. These lines resemble the cut of certain coloured gems and the shape of chocolate bar squares – both of which are tempting. The polished finish on all four sides accentuates the definition of each component, while the top is brushed vertically.
The bracelet is also fitted with a folding clasp that becomes practically invisible once closed, eliminating any visible seams and leaving an unbroken surface of identical links. Having tried it on myself in Geneva during Watches and Wonders, where it was previewed, I can confirm that the bracelet is flexible and sits smoothly on the wrist. It is not only extremely light and enveloping, but also very pleasant to the touch.
Four versions and their prices
As with previous models, the square-lined dial sits perfectly inside the bracelet. However, the new Classics Manchette is available in four different versions. The most basic model has a matt white dial with Roman numerals arranged in sets of three along the sides. Then there are two references with a hard stone dial in malachite or onyx, which are mottled green or deep black respectively. Finally, one version has a diamond-set dial, with the stones mounted in aligned rows to form a square pattern. Prices vary accordingly. They range from €1,295 for the most basic model, to €1,895 for the stone-dialled versions, to up to €4,295 for the most precious model. All models are fitted with a Swiss-made quartz movement and a long-life battery that needs replacing every five years.
At first glance, the impression is that of an ultra-modern jewellery watch, devoid of any affectation − even in its fully pavé-set version. Whether it’s the clean graphics of the dial, the bold colour of the gemstones, or the pronged setting of the diamonds, the Classics Manchette is undoubtedly a striking timepiece. It wraps around the wrist, setting a distinct mood − aggressive enough to get noticed, but not excessively so. In short, it’s a glittering, shining metal wristband with a touch of rock and a whole lot of glamour. Frederique Constant’s slogan is fitting: Time to be bold…