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Richard Mille RM 33-03: going round again?

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This post is also available in: Italian

I know that when we talk about Richard Mille, we immediately think of those ‘shaped’ watches. Those with a somewhat extravagant look that are often worn by wealthy and famous sportsmen. There’s no denying it. Since its inception in 2001, the brand from Les Breuleux, a small town in the Swiss canton of Jura, has stood out for its tonneau case and unusual materials. They are extremely light yet highly resistant. However, today I want to talk to you about a different-looking watch. Or rather, two new watches that differ only in the material used for their 41.7 mm round cases. That’s right: the new Richard Mille RM 33-03 is available in both Grade 5 titanium and carbon TPT versions.

The forerunners

After all, fans of the brand will be well aware that this is not the first time we have seen a Richard Mille watch without its characteristic shape. Over the past 24 years, the catalogue has featured several round watches. Off the top of my head, I can remember a few, such as the RM 025 Tourbillon Chronograph from 2009 ‒ the first ever. The legendary RM 28 diver’s watch, dedicated to Les Voiles de St. Barth, was released in 2012. The RM 39-01 Aviation from 2013 is a flyback chronograph whose inspiration is clear from its name. Another is the RM 60-01 from 2014, which is also a flyback chronograph with a regatta function and returned in 2021 for a sailing event in the Caribbean. And the more recent RM 032 in its ‘definitive’ version.

Meanwhile, in 2011, the ultra-thin automatic RM 033 watch was released. With its titanium case and 2.6 mm-thin movement with titanium bridges and plate, it was almost imperceptible on the wrist. This creation was consistent with Richard Mille’s quest for lightness and resistance, as mentioned above. In fact, quite a few of the brand’s models weigh no more than 20 grams when placed on a scale, including the strap. This negligible weight is offset by a level of mechanical and scratch resistance worthy of a science fiction film.

The Richard Mille RM 33-03 and its vocation

In 2019, the ultra-thin watch evolved into the RM 33-02: the first round Richard Mille watch with a Carbon TPT case. This extremely versatile model combines the characteristics of a sports watch with the elegance of a traditional round watch, as emphasised by the red gold case middle. The new RM 33-03 draws inspiration from the RM 33-02, and is its direct successor. Like its predecessor, it does not have a distinctly technical or sporty character. It is water-resistant to 3 bar, which is sufficient to prevent dust and moisture from entering the case and to safely wash your hands.

Like its predecessor, the Richard Mille RM 33-03 is designed to accompany us in our everyday lives. Wear it on your wrist and it will prove to be eclectic and suitable for any outfit ‒ whether formal or casual ‒ and any occasion. Whatever your lifestyle. I would venture to say that, for those who already own a typical tonneau model from the brand, it could be the second Richard Mille timepiece to add to their collection. It is less distinctive in appearance, but much more ‘Richard Mille’ than you might imagine. And now I’ll explain why.

The style and essence of Richard Mille are all there

The Richard Mille signature is evident in the materials used and the treatments applied to the various components of the RM 33-03 movement and case. Although the case appears circular when viewed from above, it deceives the eye when viewed from the side. The distinctive stepped design of the case middle, combined with the lugs that penetrate the bezel and the curved profile designed to fit the wrist perfectly, give it the appearance of a tonneau case. Its usual tripartite construction holds the bezel, case middle and case back together with ‘classic’ grade 5 titanium screws with star-shaped heads.

While all three components of the grade 5 titanium version are made of this special material, the Carbon Tpt variant reserves the titanium fibre composite material for the bezel and case back, while the case middle is made of red gold. This is a winning combination that contrasts well and is consistent with the outer part of the crown, which is also in red gold.

The RMXP3 calibre

While the new Richard Mille RM 33-03 shares many similarities with the RM 33-02, particularly in terms of its circular architecture, the calibre used, the RMXP3, differs substantially from the RMXP1 found in the previous model. But let’s start with the similarities. Like the previous model, it is a skeletonised movement, a design that creates the visual impression of lightness, but which also gives the watch a sense of modernity and efficiency in Richard Mille’s interpretation.

Like the RMXP1, it winds automatically thanks to an off-centre monobloc micro-rotor made of solid platinum. Despite its small size, it has the optimal weight and inertia to ensure continuous and effective oscillations induced by gravity with every movement of the wrist. When left to rest in a drawer, it guarantees a power reserve of almost two days (42 hours). Integrating a micro-rotor instead of a traditional, bulkier oscillating weight allows the movement’s thickness to be limited to just 3.28 mm. This impacts the overall thickness of the case, which is 9.7 mm.

However, the RMXP3 calibre features a rare addition for Richard Mille: a small seconds counter located at the 6 o’clock position. This is no minor detail. Not only does it enhance the dial aesthetically, it also gives it the dynamism necessary to make us appreciate the inexorable passing of time with every glance. But that’s not all: another notable feature is the date display. It is not just any date display; it is positioned vertically on the openwork dial, almost suspended next to the flange at 5 o’clock. This is a special black PVD titanium disc with perforated numbers in a font typical of the brand, which stand out against the white background. The sharp contrast between black and white makes the date, which changes semi-instantly, easy to read. I will leave the task of describing the other features in detail to the captions.

The Richard Mille RM 33-03: final considerations

No matter which case variant of the Richard Mille RM 33-03 you choose, the watch you wear will embody style, tradition and research. And all this at a price that is not excessive by the brand’s standards: 115,000 Swiss francs for the titanium version and 145,000 Swiss francs for the Carbon TPT version, excluding taxes. The significant price difference between the two is due to the greater difficulty of construction and the generous use of red gold in the latter. As I mentioned above, for those who already own a Richard Mille with a tonneau case, the RM 33-03 is the perfect starting point for a collection of extraordinary watches.