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Collaborations between the worlds of watchmaking and art have multiplied over the last ten years. These partnerships have given rise to numerous limited editions, primarily aimed at collectors. These projects are successful both commercially and from a marketing perspective, generating buzz and strengthening brand image. In my view, the latest artist’s watch, released just yesterday, is particularly well executed, not only aesthetically, but in other ways too. I believe that the Le Régulateur Louis Erard x Sylvie Fleury – Palette of Shadows is effective because it combines a series of contrasting ideas and tensions. Here are some reasons to consider.
A Sui Generis Regulator
The first thing that stands out is the contrast between the traditional regulator concept and the ultra-modern look featuring shocking colours. For the uninitiated, the regulator is an old-fashioned type of watch. It is notable for its dial layout, with the large minute hand taking centre stage while the hours and seconds are displayed on two off-centre subdials. This display, invented in the 18th century, originally served a practical purpose. Regulators were precision timekeepers, typically large pendulum clocks. They were used in watchmaking workshops and astronomical observatories as a reference for exact time, to which the timing of other clocks could be “regulated”.
That said, the regulator discussed here is a contemporary reinterpretation. However, it is not the only one from Louis Erard. Consider, for example, the ‘monstrous’ versions by Konstantin Chaykin and the collaborations with Alain Silberstein. Or the creations with Vianney Halter and Olivier Mosset. Each is more imaginative, technical and enigmatic than the last, and they illustrate the brand’s radical transformation. Take a look at the official Louis Erard story page and you’ll immediately see this evolution. I’ll explain why shortly. But first, note that Le Régulateur Louis Erard x Sylvie Fleury continues this new tradition. It does so without closing the chapter. In fact, it may even spark intense curiosity about the future of the regulator, creating a sense of anticipation about what comes next.
Louis Erard’s New Direction
The regulator has long been the “signature model” of the Le Noirmont-based brand – an independent company founded in 1929 that has remained active ever since, despite experiencing some ups and downs. Since Manuel Emch took the reins, he has brought both the brand and its flagship model back into the international spotlight. Manuel Emch has extensive experience in the watchmaking industry. His mother, Madame Arlette-Elsa Emch, was a powerful figure on the Swatch Group Board during the 1990s and 2000s, eventually becoming Swatch’s Global President. Remarkably, he was already leading Jaquet Droz by 2001 and later served as CEO of Romain Jérôme.
Mr. Emch, a creative yet strong organiser (what some might call a “product man”), joined Louis Erard’s board in 2020. Since then, he has completely revamped the brand, modernised production, and transformed the regulator into a trendsetting, decidedly cool watch. Paradoxically, he has revitalised the collection by incorporating traditional watchmaking crafts such as guilloché, Grand Feu enamel and hardstones. He has given the catalogue a contemporary edge without significantly raising prices, thus keeping the pieces accessible – a likely key ingredient in their success.
Sylvie Fleury. Matching beauty and technique
Le Régulateur Louis Erard x Sylvie Fleury immediately captures attention. The dial is reminiscent of make-up products. More specifically, it is reminiscent of powder compacts, blush cases and eyeshadow palettes. These are found in the beauty kits of women of all ages. These objects need no explanation for female audiences but carry a precise meaning here. This is linked to the famous Swiss artist who has been active on the international art scene since the 1990s. For those unfamiliar with contemporary art, however, a brief introduction is necessary.
Sylvie Fleury is a multimedia visual artist who explores the intersection between art, fashion and New Age aesthetics. She describes herself as a “punk feminist in disguise” but works across many mediums, including installations, performances, sculpture, painting and writing. Represented by major galleries and regularly featured in leading global museums, her work uses everyday objects to reflect on the fetishes and values of consumer society. She combines designer clothing and furniture, neon lights, and references to Formula 1, science fiction, and pop subcultures. In doing so, she raises questions about identity and superficiality in the Western world. Her famous phrase is: ‘Yes to everything’.
The Le Régulateur Louis Erard x Sylvie Fleury watch references a series of the artist’s famous ‘paintings’, which were first exhibited in New York at the Eye Shadows show in 2017. They were exhibited again later in Paris (late 2018/early 2019) under the name Palette of Shadows – the inspiration for the watch’s name. Both exhibitions focused on cosmetics portrayed with extreme realism, but in an oversized format. The pieces were large, even monumental, powder compacts and eyeshadows rendered in thick or shimmering acrylic colours. Housed in black lacquered wooden cases, they resembled makeup sets by leading beauty brands, except for their size. Some of the colours used in the paintings are reflected in the watch itself.
The Louis Erard x Sylvie Fleury at a Glance
The watch makes an impact with its striking chromatic contrast: a glossy black main dial paired with domed subdials in vibrant shades of pink. Hours are displayed in matte coral and seconds in matte magenta. Each subdial features a lacquered hand that matches its tone so closely that reading the time can be challenging. However, tilting the watch at certain angles makes the minute hand more visible, although this may be difficult for presbyopic users.
Other notable features include the 39 mm stainless steel case with a glossy black PVD coating that evokes the look of lacquered makeup cases. As with Louis Erard’s Excellence regulator models, inside beats the Sellita SW266-1 automatic mechanical movement, which is visible through the smoked sapphire caseback. The black patent leather strap complements the monochrome aesthetic. Priced at 3,900 Swiss francs (excluding VAT), this limited edition is capped at just 178 pieces, so serious buyers should act quickly.
