When François-Paul Journe moves, you can be sure to hear him. Not because he is clumsy, of course, but because of his watches. Take the recently unveiled Chronomètre Furtif, for example. This may seem paradoxical because a watch whose name suggests it wants to pass unnoticed has actually stirred up a ‘noisy’ interest among enthusiasts. This is always the case with the Master’s creations, especially special editions or unique pieces that become unattainable dreams once released.
Adding the Chronomètre Furtif to the current collection does not make it more accessible. However, compared to the watch from which it derives — the unique Chronomètre Furtif Bleu with a tantalum case and bracelet, created for Only Watch 2024 — the new watch becomes possible, if nothing else. With all that this adjective implies when applied to F.P. Journe…
Stealthy and mysterious
As you may recall, the decision to name the watch the Chronomètre Furtif stems from the fact that it was designed to be hidden and mysterious. Firstly, the dial is designed so that the time can only be read when viewed from very close up, making it practically invisible to anyone not wearing the watch.
It is also stealthy in that it has two complications, the moon phase indicator and the power reserve, which are located on the movement and are only visible through the case back. The dial is actually that of a time-only watch and is made of mirror-polished Grand Feu enamel. This process took a year and a half of testing to perfect.
The dial of the Chronomètre Furtif
I’ll start here, because I think the dial is the most exceptional part of the watch. During my visit to the F.P. Journe workshop last autumn, I spoke to several people who confirmed how complex the work behind it is. Achieving this type of finish — a polish already present on the Chronomètre Furtif Bleu — was extremely challenging.
The dial is crafted by Les Cadraniers de Genève, F.P. Journe’s dedicated workshop. The surface, finished in mirror-polished anthracite Grand Feu enamel on a white gold base, appears almost bare unless viewed up close. It is only when light hits it at the right angle, combined with the angle of the wrist, that the numbers and minute track begin to appear.
In addition to the Grand Feu firing process, polishing the enamel is another challenging step. After several high-temperature firings, Grand Feu enamel tends to develop an orange peel texture, resulting from the subsequent melting and cooling processes. Therefore, the surface must be carefully smoothed to achieve a uniform, mirror-like finish. This difficult and delicate craftsmanship makes the Chronomètre Furtif highly desirable.
Compared to the polishing stage, creating the small parts and hour markers is almost child’s play. A laser engraves the enamel, removing the top layer to reveal the gold texture underneath. The result is a series of hour markers that are almost invisible unless hit by the right amount of light. The classic F.P. Journe hour and minute hands are shaped like elongated drops and are opaque and rhodium-plated. The thin, long seconds hand is white and is perhaps the least stealthy element on the dial.
Power to materials!
The work carried out on the bracelet and case is no less exceptional. They are the same size as those of the Chronomètre Furtif Bleu: 42 mm in diameter and 9.5 mm thick. The black-coated case middle, bezel and bracelet are made of tungsten carbide, an extremely hard composite material with a hardness of around 9 on the Mohs scale — just below that of diamond. To create a virtually scratch-proof structure, the manufacturer has exploited the material’s very own properties.
The hardness of tungsten carbide also enables the black coating to adhere more evenly and permanently, even when deformed under pressure. Tungsten carbide is also notable for its density, which is approximately twice that of steel. The result is a watch that feels substantial on the wrist despite its slim profile.
Just as he presented Les Cadraniers de Genève with a challenge in the form of the dial, François-Paul Journe did the same with the case by entrusting its creation to Les Boîtiers de Genève, the company’s own case manufacturing facility. As you might expect, the most advanced knowledge in the fields of materials science and manufacturing technology was required to create it. Journe designed it himself and then collaborated directly with Les Boîtiers de Genève on its development. As I’m sure you know, the Master starts with the movement when designing each watch; the case and dial come afterwards.
Work on the bracelet
The bezel and case middle are made of tungsten carbide and have a sandblasted finish. In contrast, the tantalum parts – the case back and bezel ring – are fully polished. The craftsmen at Les Boîtiers de Genève spent years perfecting the polishing of tantalum until they found the right polishing pastes and discs and the correct rotation speed for the machines.
Tungsten carbide is also used for the Chronomètre Furtif bracelet, which is fully integrated into the case to create a seamless visual and structural effect. As with the case, it is exceptionally hard and stable, requiring advanced machining with diamond tools due to its extreme density.
The difference with the bracelet is that there are numerous components, so it is not possible to work on a single large block of material. Each bracelet link is individually finished and precisely assembled to ensure the watch is comfortable to wear without compromising the consistency of the Chronomètre Furtif’s overall design. Also assembled by Les Boîtiers de Genève, the bracelet combines engineering precision with understated aesthetics. The folding clasp is made of titanium with a polished tantalum closure.
Calibre 1522: the heart of the Chronomètre Furtif
The Chronomètre Furtif is powered by the remarkable Calibre 1522 movement, which is notable for being the first F.P. Journe movement with a central seconds hand. François-Paul Journe placed great emphasis on the mechanical efficiency of the movement himself, so he designed the central seconds to ‘work’ directly by positioning the fourth wheel of the time train at the centre of the movement, thereby avoiding unnecessary weight. The alternative, which was rejected, would have involved using an auxiliary gear train driven by the fourth wheel and positioned at 6 o’clock.
The movement retains the two parallel barrels also found in Calibre 1304, which powers the Chronomètre Souverain. This solution is used to obtain higher and more stable torque, significantly improving chronometric performance rather than extending the power reserve.
The gear train is distributed along a large main plate capable of accommodating hidden functions. Specifically, as mentioned earlier, these are the power reserve and moon phase indicators, which are located in the outermost area of the calibre. Adding them required a total of six bridges, with the third and fourth wheels supported by two single bridges along the escape wheel. The free-sprung balance wheel is supported by a complete cross bridge to ensure stability.
Chronomètre Furtif: beyond convention
Overall, François-Paul Journe has once again demonstrated his mastery with the Chronomètre Furtif. Above all, he has confirmed his ability to constantly evolve and keep pace with modernity, while maintaining his almost priestly mission as guardian of classic Swiss and French watchmaking. Because we are dealing with a sports watch that breaks with convention, a piece that exceeds expectations for several reasons: from the use of modern and industrially advanced materials to the mirror-polished Grand Feu enamel dial.
A masterful achievement, as I wrote. A master who, every day, gives the impression of enjoying challenging clichés even more than the limits of watchmaking. It matters little that the Chronomètre Furtif costs 85,000 Swiss francs and that, given the complexity of its manufacture, production will be limited to no more than 100 pieces. It has caused a stir and will still put many beauty addicts on the waiting list.
