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Tradition Seconde Rétrograde 7035, Breguet continues to celebrate

The Breguet Tradition Seconde Rétrograde 7035
Like all timepieces in Breguet's Tradition collection, the Reference 7035 Seconde Rétrograde is characterised by a pure, symmetrical design. The large barrel is mounted in the centre of the main plate, with the time train visible on the left and the balance wheel on the right. Another of the founder of the Maison's inventions can be seen on the balance bridge: the “parachute”, the precursor to Incabloc and other current shock-protection systems. The case and movement are crafted from Breguet gold. The watch costs €51,200.
The Tradition Seconde Rétrograde 7035: side view
The Breguet gold case measures 38 mm in diameter and 12.6 mm in thickness. It bears all the hallmarks of the Breguet style that have been established over the years. These include the slender bezel, flush soldered lugs without telescopic bars and a fluted caseband. These thin elements, adorned with two superimposed fillets, are produced using a process known as écrouissage. This involves cold-rolling the gold and then working it by hand on a steady mechanical support.
The Tradition Seconde Rétrograde 7035's case back
The special construction of the movement can also be seen on the reverse, thanks to the sapphire crystal. The 14.5-line, 32.8 mm diameter, 6.31 mm thick, self-winding Calibre 505SR comprises 245 components mounted on 38 jewels and 24 flame-blued steel screws. The balance operates at a frequency of 21,600 beats per hour (3 Hz). The vertically satin-brushed platinum oscillating weight provides 50 hours of autonomy. Other noteworthy features include the grenaillé mainplate and microblasted, satin-brushed Breguet gold bridges. The anglage is visible throughout.
The shield-shaped rotor of the Tradition Seconde Rétrograde 7035
The platinum oscillating weight assembly. Its distinctive half-moon shape is derived from the 'perpetual' watch developed by Abraham-Louis Breguet in the 1770s, although the exact date is unknown. This 'self-winding' mechanism does not require a key or any other kind of external intervention. It is based on the principle of an oscillating mass that moves in response to the wearer's body movements and steps, winding the barrel in the process (there are two barrels in Master's watches). The autonomy, which can be as long as 60 hours, is displayed by an indicator on the dial. Breguet later preferred to call the first 'automatic' model the 'perpetual' watch, and it was sold to the Duke of Orleans in 1780. Between 1787 and 1823, Breguet produced around sixty pieces.
The balance wheel assembly of the Tradition Seconde Rétrograde 7035.
This is the balance wheel assembly. Note the blue hairspring, which is a patented Breguet design made of Nivachron™, a special titanium alloy offering various beneficial properties. It is resistant to magnetic fields, corrosion and, to some extent, temperature variations, all of which contribute to consistent movement. Nivachron™ was developed a few years ago by Nivarox, a specialised company belonging to the Swatch Group, just like Breguet.
The anglage of a bridge of the Tradition Seconde Rétrograde 7035
Anglage of a 505SR calibre bridge. Finishing the flanks of mechanical components is a typical haute horlogerie process. This involves eliminating machining residues or manufacturing marks to give the flanks a smooth, clean and imperfection-free appearance. This process also provides a form of corrosion prevention. Once the burrs have been removed, the side surface is typically levelled and sanded by hand with files. In this case, however, the final step is carried out using a diamond wheel, a quick method that produces excellent results. However, perfect mastery of the tool is required because errors cannot be rectified.
The guillochage of the dial of the Tradition Seconde Rétrograde 7035
The guillochage process involves hand-engraving the dial with a predefined geometric pattern using specially designed antique pantograph machines. The dial starts as a simple solid gold disc, which is then engraved using dry points. Depending on the design, up to ten burins may be used to create the different lines. Abraham-Louis Breguet first introduced 'guilloché dials' in 1786 to improve the readability of his watches. Today, the company that bears his name boasts the world's largest and best-equipped guilloché lathe workshop.
The dial of the Tradition Seconde Rétrograde 7035 in the high temperature oven
After engraving, each Breguet gold dial of the Tradition Seconde Rétrograde 7035 is coated with several layers of Grand Feu enamel. The dial is then placed in a high-temperature oven (over 800°C) for multiple cycles until the desired colour intensity is achieved. Even today, despite electronic heat control, the firing stages pose a risk to the 'maître émailleur'. Once enamelling is complete, the numerals and minute track are applied à décalque, and the distinctive 'à pomme évidée' hands, which are also made of Breguet gold, are added.
The Tradition Seconde Rétrograde 7035 dial assembly.
The small off-centre dial is positioned perfectly. Despite its small size, it features all the typical characteristics of the House's dials. First and foremost are the Breguet numerals, which are instantly recognisable for their elegant and clear handwriting. They took on their definitive form around 1790. Since before the French Revolution, Breguet Arabic numerals have been combined with small stars to mark the minutes and stylised cornflowers to mark the five-minute intervals. The individual 'factory' number, which has been applied since the early years of the Maison, is located at 4 o'clock.
The Montre à Tact, ancestor of the Tradition Seconde Rétrograde 7035
This is a Breguet 'montre à tact' which was sold at Christie's auction house in 2014. Specimen No. 608 was sold on 8 Germinal in the year 1800 to Monsieur Bastrèche for 3,000 francs. The pink gold case measures 42 mm in diameter and features a signed and numbered cuvette and movement. The arrow-shaped hour hand is made of white gold and is set with diamonds, standing out against the translucent royal blue enamel background with a striped guilloché pattern. The fluted case middle is set with eleven rose-cut diamonds that serve as hour markers. The back is also decorated with translucent royal blue enamel on a sunburst guilloché background. (Photo courtesy of Christie's).
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This post is also available in: Italian

The 250th anniversary is an important milestone. To mark the occasion, Breguet is launching a series of anniversary-dedicated timepieces throughout 2025. The first of these was the Classique Souscription, unveiled last month. Next is the Tradition Seconde Rétrograde 7035, which, as we shall see, is the perfect follow-up to the previous model. It is reasonable to assume that all of the celebratory watches released will retrace the history of the House. They will pay tribute to Abraham-Louis Breguet and his inventions, as well as to the company’s more recent history. This will be done in stages, in a logical order rather than chronologically. At least, that is my perception.

The Tradition collection

The Tradition collection, launched 20 years ago, draws inspiration from ‘subscription watches‘, just like the Classique Souscription. These pocket watches had a simple design with no complications. They were built by the Master in the 1790s and offered in 1796 alongside a promotional leaflet. This explained the pre-sale system involving advance payment. Then, in 1799, the same mechanical construction was used for ‘touch watches‘, also known as montres-à-tact. These watches allowed the wearer to read the time by touching an arrow hand positioned outside the case and the hour markers on its rim.

Combining elements of these two historical types, the Tradition collection has been instantly recognisable since its inception thanks to its unique design. This design shifts the display of hours and minutes to an off-centre dial, revealing the main components of the movement. The first model, released in 2005, featured a yellow gold case and a hand-wound mechanical movement with a power reserve display (Ref. 7027). The following year, it was released with a white gold case and an automatic movement featuring the same minor complication (Ref. 7037). Thus, the collection immediately demonstrated its ability to evolve, acquiring various functions over the years. We now have a Tradition model with a dual time zone, a tourbillon, a chronograph and a retrograde date display.

Tradition Seconde Rétrograde: two models compared

Reference 7097 dates from 2015 and is still in production today. This timepiece features a retrograde seconds hand and is considered the predecessor to the current Tradition Seconde Rétrograde 7035. The two models differ in several ways, beginning with the case. While the 7097 is made of white gold and has a diameter of 40 mm, the 7035 is made of Breguet gold and has a diameter of 38 mm. This exclusive alloy, developed for the 250^(th) anniversary, was first featured in the Classique Souscription. It is composed of 75% gold and 25% silver, copper, and palladium.

The off-centre dial is also different: in Ref. 7097, it is silver-plated gold with a hand-decorated Clou de Paris guilloché pattern. Ref. 7035, on the other hand, features personalised Quai de l’Horloge guillochage, paying homage to the Parisian street on which the founder’s atelier was located when it opened on the Île de la Cité in 1775. According to the company, this motif is inspired by the arms of the Seine, as depicted on the famous 18th century Plan de Turgot map of the city, which is now on display at the Louvre. Commissioned by Michel-Etienne Turgot (1690–1751), Head of the Paris Municipality, it was created by the master engraver Louis de Bretez, and is today considered one of the most beautiful maps of Paris ever made.

Breguet’s distinctive details

It should also be noted that guillochage is one of the crafts that Maison Breguet is most proud of. The dial of the Tradition Seconde Rétrograde 7035 is not only finely hand-engraved, but also coated with translucent blue Grand Feu enamel. This is Breguet blue, of course: the distinctive shade that sets the brand’s timepieces apart and has become one of its most iconic design features. Here, the underlying carving gives it lighter and deeper reflections. This blue also colours the thin retrograde seconds hand at 10 o’clock. It also tints the movement screws, which are made of flame-blued steel in accordance with the finest watchmaking tradition.

The 505SR calibre

In terms of mechanics, the new Tradition Seconde Rétrograde 7035 shares its movement with the Ref. 7097: Calibre 505SR. The oscillating weight for the automatic winding is distinctive in its unusual shield or half-moon shape, as defined in the official press release. This is a legacy of the ‘perpetual’ calibre invented by Abraham-Louis Breguet, the precursor to modern self-winding watches. In ref. 7097, the oscillating weight is made of gold; in ref. 7035, it is made of platinum, a high-density metal that optimises performance. Most notably, the latest-generation 505SR calibre features plates and bridges that are entirely made of Breguet gold. While the grenaillé finish on the main plate was present on the previous model, the bridges and barrel cover are brushed in this latest version.

Another difference is the anti-magnetic balance spring: while it is made of silicon in the 7097 (like the anchor’s horns, with their inverted construction), it is made of Nivachron™ in the 7035. This choice is undoubtedly influenced by the progress of research (the Nivachron™ spiral is a recent invention). However, it is also most likely due to the desire to use traditional materials, such as the ‘good old metal’, as Augusto Veroni would say. The titanium base of the Nivachron™ balance spring overcomes the uncertainties posed by silicon for the future. It is by far the better choice for a watch with eternal ambitions, such as this anniversary model.

The latest details of the Tradition Seconde Rétrograde 7035

As always, I will conclude with the retail price. The Tradition Seconde Rétrograde 7035 costs €51,200, compared to €43,300 for the reference model, 7097. This price difference reflects the increased amount of gold, the presence of platinum and Grand Feu enamel, and everything I have described above. The packaging is also worth mentioning: it is a red leather case similar to that of the Classique Souscription. Drawing inspiration from Moroccan boxes from the Breguet era, it is sure to be a defining feature of the anniversary models.