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One of the many features that sets Patek Philippe apart is its ability to evolve and develop while staying true to its historical identity. This is no easy feat, particularly with regard to the Calatrava collection. For a collection that is universally recognised by enthusiasts as the pinnacle of classicism, adapting to the times, tastes and the changing needs of modern life is hard work. Examples like the Calatrava 8-day ref. 5328G, which I saw and tried on at Watches and Wonders, prove that it’s challenging, but necessary. With this watch, Patek Philippe has done precisely that.
When I observed the watch through the lens and put it on my wrist, I had the strange impression that I was wearing a field watch rather than a dress watch. This impression was shared by other colleagues, including those from abroad. That is, a ‘field’ watch designed for military use. In fact, it is arguably the most expensive field watch on the market. It is unlikely that Patek Philippe intended to give this nuance to the Calatrava in question. Yet something remains…
Calatrava 8 Days 2.0
This is probably because Patek Philippe has been reworking the design of the Calatrava collection subtly and intelligently over the past few years. The aim is to ensure that it does not become mired in tradition and lose its relevance, while still maintaining its identity. Examples of this include the expansion of dial finishes, more pronounced shapes (particularly in the lugs), and the use of the Clous de Paris finish along the case middle.
All these elements are present and well amalgamated in the Calatrava 8-day ref. 5328G. This proves that the Geneva-based Maison has no intention of standing still with this collection — quite the contrary. In order to update the collection and make it more appealing to new enthusiasts, Patek Philippe incorporates technical solutions and design elements from its past without hesitation. In this case, it is the eight-day power reserve.
The autonomy of the Patek Philippe calibres
This long autonomy is a feature already found in some perpetual calendar table clocks from the 1920s, which were equipped with an eight-day power reserve. More recently, the Maison produced the Ref. 5100 10 Days, introduced in 2000. This model features a rectangular case and was produced in limited quantities of three thousand. This was the world’s first chronometer wristwatch with a 240-hour power reserve.
Another example is the Ref. 5101P 10 Days Tourbillon, released in 2003, is a platinum timepiece with an Art Deco-inspired rectangular case and a bespoke hand-wound movement. Ten years later came the Ref. 5200 Gondolo 8 Days, Day & Date Indication. Its rectangular, hand-wound calibre and instantaneous weekday and date changes bear close relation to the reference I am writing about today. We shall see later.
I recognise this face…
I’m reminded of the feeling I wrote about previously when looking at that field watch. This feeling mainly comes from the structure of the dial. As with all my articles, I prefer to leave the strictly technical details to the captions. However, I think it is necessary to mention here that the Calatrava 8-day ref. 5328G looks like.
The smoky blue dial features an asphalt-like texture, a familiar sight for Patek Philippe enthusiasts. We first saw this texture on a brown dial in ref. 5226G, introduced in 2022. Alongside this finish, the Calatrava 8-day ref. 5328G retains the design of the syringe hands and Arabic numerals from its predecessor, giving it the serious appearance of a field watch. Robustness and clarity of information reading are essential characteristics of this type of watch. For this reason, I think the dial is well designed.
Eight carefree days!
However, I mustn’t forget that a field watch should also be reliable and autonomous. With this in mind, before we return to the technical specifications, I would like to mention a historical detail regarding the calibre of the Calatrava 8 Days Ref. 5328G.
As is often the case with Patek Philippe movements, it has a code that is almost impossible to remember – 31-505 8J PS IRM CI J – but it has solid roots in the company’s past. In fact, it relates to the Ref. 5200 Gondolo 8 Days, Day & Date Indication that I wrote about above, as they share the same basic movement structure. Main difference: the 28-20 REC 8J PS IRM C J calibre was rectangular, to match the shape of the case. The current one is round, to fit perfectly into the Calatrava-style case.
The eight-day autonomy is indicated by the ‘8J’ in the movement’s name and includes the functional features typically expected from a Patek Philippe field watch. These include the instantaneous change of the day of the week and the month, as well as the power reserve, which formally lasts eight days, but in reality lasts nine. This extra day is indicated by a red zone on the autonomy indicator.
An 8-day Calatrava for all days
Now, let’s move on to the captions. Not before recalling the price of the Calatrava 8-Day Ref. 5328G – €71,280 – and making a few final remarks about the watch. Patek Philippe unveiled it at Watches and Wonders alongside another Calatrava reference, the 6169P, which has a platinum case and an elegant, classic design. In my opinion, this was a smart move.
While the platinum watch is undoubtedly a dress watch, more suited to special occasions than everyday wear, the Calatrava 8-Day Ref. 5328G is the perfect everyday watch. You can rely on it to keep the correct time and date when you put it on your wrist, even if you only wear it a few days a week. In this way, the Maison has offered an alternative within the same collection to satisfy the different tastes and needs of enthusiasts. Without altering it, as I wrote in the opening lines. This is why the Calatrava 8-day ref. 5328G is one of the few haute horlogerie pieces that is more than the sum of its parts today. In this respect, it is very Patek Philippe.
