There are watch brands all over the world that don’t receive the recognition they deserve. This strikes me every time I scroll through posts on major watchmaking forums or browse the many Facebook groups dedicated to the subject. Perhaps it’s due to trends, marketing campaigns or communication strategies. What I notice is that some of the names that have truly shaped the history of watchmaking still remain in the shadows. Girard-Perregaux is one of them. It doesn’t take much to realise that it deserves more recognition. Just look at its current collections, the extraordinary complications found in some models, the quality of the materials used, and how some designs have remained popular for centuries. Centuries indeed. Headquartered in La Chaux-de-Fonds (the cradle of Swiss watchmaking) since 1856, Girard-Perregaux actually dates back to 1791. Today, I’m here to talk about its latest release: the Deep Diver, a diving watch (or sports watch, more broadly).
Timeless Icons
Girard-Perregaux was created by the unforgettable Gino Macaluso in the early 1990s and is currently owned by the SoWind Group. In 2008, it was acquired by the French luxury giant Kering Group. Then, in 2022, it was bought out by its own management (as was Ulysse Nardin), returning it to full independence. Under the leadership of Patrick Pruniaux, the brand’s classic timepieces have been modernised while remaining faithful to their origins and unmistakable design heritage.
Take the current Laureato, for example. First introduced in 1975, this sporty model was named after The Graduate, starring a young Dustin Hoffman, and helped to broaden the brand’s appeal. Over the past decade, it has been offered in a wide range of models, bolstered by prestigious partnerships such as the one with Aston Martin.
Then there’s the Casquette 2.0: an electronic timepiece with an unusual design that stays true to the original from 1976. Then there’s the evergreen La Esmeralda, which has astonished watch lovers since 1867 with its tourbillon beneath three golden bridges (“Sous Trois Points d’Or”) – and is now also available in other materials. Finally, we come to the subject of this article: the Deep Diver, a modern reinterpretation of a 1969 icon.
The Girard-Perregaux Deep Diver: limited to just 350 pieces
Like the other models in the Legacy Edition line, the Deep Diver is a limited edition. Only 350 pieces have been produced, each one individually numbered, which makes it particularly appealing to collectors. Its design remains faithful to that of the original model, the reference 9108. It features a cushion-shaped titanium case, a 14-sided bezel and impressive water resistance. The updated version is water-resistant up to 20 ATM.
As the name suggests, it is a true dive watch and is equally suitable for wear outside the water. Proof of this lies in the rotating inner ring, which is controlled by the crown at 2 o’clock. This acts like a bi-directional rotating bezel. With a scale from 0 to 60, the “0” marker on the minute hand can be set to measure elapsed time from any given moment.
It is operated by a screw-down crown, making it highly secure and immune to accidental movement — bumps or unintended touches won’t alter its position. For more design details of the Deep Diver’s dial, please refer to the photo captions in the gallery.
The Bamford Watch Department Collaboration
At the centre of the dial, just below the hand axis at 6 o’clock, you’ll notice an orange ‘Bamford’ inscription. This is not the usual movement type or jewel count (27, in this case), but rather the name of a renowned customisation house. Watch enthusiasts will recognise it as the Bamford Watch Department: a London-based firm founded in 2007 that specialises in bespoke timepieces.
Despite its relatively recent origins, Bamford has forged top-tier partnerships in the luxury segment. As well as designing this Deep Diver, Bamford has collaborated with Franck Muller, Zenith, TAG Heuer, Chopard and Bremont. For Girard-Perregaux, it has also personalised a piece from the Cat’s Eye women’s collection.
The Original Deep Diver’s Gyromatic Movement
The modern Deep Diver is powered by the GP03300 in-house movement, which is also found in the time-only models of the Laureato collection. It is therefore not the same as the original from 1969. Technology and materials have evolved significantly in nearly 60 years. Nevertheless, the original Gyromatic movement deserves a mention.
The term ‘Gyromatic’ did not refer to a single calibre, but to a family of movements produced by Girard-Perregaux from the 1950s to the 1970s. These were known for their bi-directional winding rotors. Initially, these were in-house modules mounted on base manual calibres (A.S., ETA or Peseux). Over time, ‘Gyromatic’ came to represent all of the Maison’s automatic movements, including integrated ones.
In simple terms, the module consisted of a rotor and a system of reversing gears connected to the mainspring barrel via a pair of free wheels with coaxial pinions. Instead of the more delicate conventional pawls, it used seven ruby rollers, or Gyrotrons, per wheel. As the oscillating weight moved in either direction, one of the wheels would engage and wind the mainspring.
Around 1966, Gyromatic technology evolved to incorporate high-frequency movements, reaching 36,000 vibrations per hour. This frequency ensured superb accuracy and reliability, then as now. The high-frequency ticking also gave the seconds hand a smooth, continuous sweep. This is a feature that is highly appreciated by micro-mechanics purists. These Gyromatic HF models are now highly sought-after by collectors.
The New Deep Diver features the GP03300 Caliber
Returning to the modern Deep Diver, the GP03300 features an in-house movement with a balance wheel that beats at 28,800 vibrations per hour (4 Hz). It has a standard power reserve of 46 hours, just under two days. The movement can be viewed through a blue-tinted sapphire porthole on the case back.
I use the word ‘porthole’ intentionally – it’s not a typical wide, transparent case back offering an open view. Instead, Girard-Perregaux offers a central sapphire medallion with a metallic blue tint. The trident emblem, wave pattern and curved ‘Deep Diver’ inscription also partially obscure the view.
You might think that the Côtes de Genève decoration on the oscillating weight and bridges deserves a clearer view. Fair enough, but historical fidelity takes precedence. The 1969 model had a solid steel case back decorated with the same trident, waves and text. Transparent case backs were uncommon back then, and sometimes even frowned upon. The trend of showcasing movements is a relatively recent phenomenon, and is often unnecessary, though not in this case.
Price and Wearability
The Girard-Perregaux Deep Diver is priced at €16,000 in Italy and comes with a second orange rubber strap and a titanium buckle. This is comparable to the entry-level Laureato with a steel bracelet. The two watches share the same movement, sporty yet elegant styling, and comfortable fit. Girard-Perregaux designed this watch for everyday wear, and it is also suitable for smart-casual settings.
Given the current fashion for pairing sneakers with formal wear, you won’t look out of place wearing the Deep Diver in relaxed yet stylish work environments. Plus, the two interchangeable rubber straps – blue and orange – let you switch things up. With its modest case size of 40.3 x 38 mm and vibrant colour, the watch could even look great on a woman’s wrist.
